In today’s world, hair dyes have become a vital tool in the beauty industry, allowing people to express their personal style and enhance their appearance. With the transformative power of these products, it’s no surprise that more and more people are making a bold statement through hair color.
The market is filled with various hair dye products that cater to different preferences, offering various options. To make an informed choice when selecting a dye, it’s essential to understand the mechanisms behind the two main types: oxidative and non-oxidative. Each type has distinct effects and outcomes, so knowing the differences can help you align your decision with your preferences.
Oxidative Vs Non-Oxidative Hair Color? The Quick Answer
Hair Anatomy: Basics of Hair Dyeing
Understanding the hair structure is essential when learning about hair dye. Each strand of hair has three main layers: the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cuticle protects the inner layers and is made up of overlapping scales. Beneath it, the cortex contains the pigment that gives hair its color.
The medulla, found in thick hair, sits at the core. The visible part of the hair is the hair shaft, which extends from the scalp to the tip. Inside the hair follicle, you’ll find the hair bulb, which supports and nourishes the hair shaft. Additionally, the sebaceous gland produces sebum, an oily substance that lubricates and protects the hair.
How Can We Differentiate Between Oxidative and Non-Oxidative Hair Color?
To differentiate between oxidative hair dyes and non-oxidative hair dyes, it’s important to understand their formulation and mechanism of action. Oxidative hair dyes work by using chemicals that react with the hair’s natural structure, while non-oxidative hair dyes simply coat the hair without any chemical reaction. The types of dyes determine their lasting power and the level of color change.
1. Explanation
When you choose between oxidative and non-oxidative dyes, it’s essential to understand the key difference. Oxidative dye relies on an oxidative chemical reaction that activates with an oxidative agent like hydrogen peroxide. This chemical reaction helps to develop and fix the color in your hair, making it longer-lasting.
The process involves mixing the dye with an activator, which opens the hair scales and allows the hair to absorb the color effectively. There are various percentages and different strengths of oxidation in these products, making them more customizable based on your needs.
On the other hand, non-oxidative dyes do not require this chemical process. They don’t use oxidative agents or oxidation to alter the color, making them a gentler option for those looking for less permanent color changes. The color will still develop and fix, but without the same chemical interaction. These dyes are typically temporary and can be great for a quick change or to avoid the oxidative chemical reaction altogether.
2. Peroxide Presence
Oxidative hair dyes are also known as demi-permanent and permanent hair dyes, having variable amounts of peroxide in them. Non-oxidatives become the component of temporary and semi-permanent hair dyes, having a total absence of ammonia/peroxide in them.
3. Intensification And Color Deposition Levels
For oxidative dye, the color is deposited deeply into the hair shaft, especially in permanent and demi-permanent products. They use peroxide to help small color molecules penetrate the hair cuticle and deposit color into the cortex, offering intense color deposit and better coverage. This results in vibrant shades and a more uniform color, perfect for covering gray hair and achieving long-lasting color change.
On the other hand, non-oxidative dyes like semi-permanent dyes and temporary hair dyes only coat the outer layer of the hair, making them ideal for special occasions or experimenting with new looks. These dyes don’t offer any lightening or gray coverage and gradually fade with time, so they are perfect for enhancing or darkening existing hair color without permanent changes.
4. Oxidation Catalyst (Developer)
When it comes to oxidative hair colors, the process involves mixing a coloring cream with an oxidizing agent, often hydrogen peroxide, which acts as the oxidation catalyst. This combination activates the oxidant, helping to develop larger pigments that penetrate the hair shaft. The oxidation process causes the color molecules to form, leading to a visibly colored result that lasts longer. These pigments, once mixed with the developer, interact with the hair’s natural structure, producing a permanent color change.
On the other hand, direct dyeing, aka non-oxidative hair colors, involves applying slightly colored or even colorless pigments directly to the hair, with no need for an oxidizing agent. These dyes do not require a developer or oxidation to penetrate the hair. Instead, the pigments coat the hair’s surface, providing a temporary color that washes out over time. While oxidative colors change the structure of the hair’s pigments, non-oxidative dyes simply add color on top.
5. Hair Color Composition
The oxidative hair color pigments are initially colorless and need to be activated by an oxidant, usually hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing agents work with alkaline substances like ammonia hydroxide or ethanolamines to open the cuticle of the hair and allow the color to penetrate inside.
These colors are composed of two parts:
1. The base
2. The oxidant.
The base is typically a gel, oil, or cream, which helps the color mix effectively. It also has intermediate dyes in it, which are usually colorless. As the oxidant is activated, the synthetic pigments increase in size, binding to the hair microfibers and resulting in a long-lasting color. Stabilizers are added to maintain the mixture and ensure consistency, which helps maintain a stable oxygen level, preventing evaporation. Nourishing ingredients are added to treat and restructure the hair, restoring its softness and elasticity.
On the other hand, non-oxidizing hair color works quite differently. The pigments are pre-formed, ready to use and already visibly colored before application. There’s no need for an oxidant or developer to activate them. These colors are composed of a specific ratio of gelling agent, a mercaptan-based reducing agent, and, most importantly, a certified and approved dye, making them ideal for those who prefer a more straightforward application without the chemical reaction typical of oxidative dyes.
6. Color Stability and Authenticity
Oxidative hair color creates a permanent change by interacting with the hair’s natural melanin, which the developer partially dissolves and lightens. This process alters the natural color of the hair significantly, making it impossible to return to the original color even with a color remover.
In contrast, non-oxidative hair dye provides a temporary color effect that lasts only a few washes. These products are gentle as they do not contain hydrogen peroxide, making them unsuitable for those looking to lighten hair or cover individual grays effectively in dyeing gray hair.
7. pH Variation
Regarding oxidative and non-oxidative hair dyes, the pH level plays a crucial role in determining the results. Oxidative hair dyes, with their alkaline pH ranging from 9 to 11, cause the hair cuticle to swell and open, allowing colour actives and dyes to penetrate deep into the hair shaft. This leads to a powerful and fast chemical reaction, making it ideal for shade transformations, like lightening or grey coverage, and delivering intense colour.
On the other hand, non-oxidative hair dyes, which have a more acidic pH (4.5 to 6), result in a slowed down oxidative reaction. The swelling of the hair cuticle is gentler, with a smaller opening, ensuring a deposit-only colour without altering the natural hair much. The results come with reduced damage or even zero damage, making it a safer option for those looking for a less permanent change with a quicker reaction speed.
8. Color Penetration Level
The major point that distinguishes between oxidative and non-oxidative hair dyes is their penetration levels inside the hair shaft. Oxidative dyes are alkaline, so they penetrate deep inside the cortex and leave the color molecules to provide a huge range of transformation.
Non-oxidative hair dyes possess larger molecules and are unable to penetrate the hair cuticle; rather, they tint the hair and make a wrapping surface around the hair shaft, which makes it a temporary but effective choice.
9. Washing Tolerance
Since Oxidative hair dyes color molecules penetrate deep into the cortex region so it remain long lasting leave in hair upto 10 to 25 washes or even longer depend upon the quality of hair color and also the hair growth frequency.
Non-oxidative hair dyes have low washing tolerance as it remains in hair from 3 to 10 washes depending upon the type and quality of hair dye.
10. More Cautionary to Use
There is no doubt that Oxidative hair dyes last longer, but at the same time it will cause more damage to your twisty treasure in various ways because of its high penetration level. Non-oxidative hair dyes are less cautionary to use as compared to oxidative because of its ph and penetration levels.
11. Grey Hair Coverage
Oxidative hair dyes provide complete grey hair coverage with long-lasting effects, while non-oxidatives are unable to give you complete grey hair coverage.
12. Color Selection
Oxidative hair dyes have a wide range of color selections, can be used for lighter shades, and also provide full hair coverage. Non-oxidative hair dyes have a limited color range, are unable to provide full hair coverage, and lighten the hair.
13. More Friendly Toward Hair
Oxidatives have a high concentration of harsh chemicals like ammonia, which are not friendly for the hair shaft and cause hair to become more porous and dull over time. However, non-oxidatives are comparatively more convenient and friendly to use, provide instant color, and are gentler toward the hair shaft.
14. Patch Test
Oxidative hair color sometimes causes scalp irritation; in some case to it is recommended to do a patch test first before use. Non-oxidative color does not require a patch test so it is safe for use for everyone.
So, What is More Appropriate to Use?
It depends upon the personal preference and the type of hair tone you want to opt for. If you want some lighter tones with long-lasting effects, go for oxidative hair colors. They are less gentle yet give you complete coverage with various shades. Incorporating a proper after-color haircare routine is highly recommended to overcome the damage.
If you are in a hurry or want some funky yet temporary hair transformation, non-oxidative hair colors are the best choice for you. These cause less damage and easy to use and looks beautiful as well.
Final Words
I hope this article makes it easy to understand the difference between oxidative and non-oxidative colors, which will help you to make your choice more clearly. At Twisty Treasure, you will get expert-level assistance regarding your hair color journey. So feel free to contact us to keep you transformed.
FAQs
What is the difference between oxidative and non-oxidative hair dye?
Non-oxidative hair colors are temporary and deposit color on the hair’s surface without a developer, while oxidative hair colors require a developer to penetrate the hair for long-lasting results.
What is an oxidative hair color?
Oxidative hair dyes are commonly used in permanent hair color products to cover grey hair to lighten or dye hair in a desired color. They offer a wide range of shades and can be easily identified by checking the ingredients list on the packaging.
What are non-oxidative colors?
Non-oxidative colors are temporary or semi-permanent dyes that last only until the next shampoo. They don’t penetrate the hair shaft but instead, large color molecules coat the surface of the cuticle, creating a physical change. These colors don’t need a patch test or predeposition test, making them easy to apply and remove.
What is the purpose of the oxidizer in hair coloring?
The hair oxidant plays an important role by lightening the hair before the dye can penetrate. This helps the color look different on light and dark hair, and pre-lightening ensures a perfect, uniform color rather than an unpleasant shade.
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