PEH Balance: The 3 Essential Pillars of Haircare Explained

Last updated on April 28th, 2025 at 03:49 am

Achieving shiny and beautiful hair isn’t a dream if you understand your hair’s unique needs. Proper haircare involves a conscious effort to select products deliberately, avoiding randomly picking items with improper proportions of key ingredients like proteins, emollients, and humectants. Harsh weather conditions can quickly make hair look unsightly without a tailored approach, causing it to deteriorate rather than remain healthy.

Overall Summary
PEH balance refers to the essential trio of proteins, emollients, and humectants that maintain healthy hair. Proteins strengthen and repair the hair structure, emollients seal moisture and protect from damage, while humectants attract and retain water to prevent dryness. Achieving the right balance is crucial, as too much of one ingredient can cause issues like frizz or brittleness, while too little can weaken hair. The ideal PEH balance varies based on individual hair needs, influenced by factors like porosity and texture. By understanding your hair’s requirements and adjusting products accordingly, you can maintain hydrated, strong, and shiny hair.

What is Actually PEH?

To put it simply, PEH is a smart shortcut referring to three essential groups of active ingredients: proteins, emollients, and humectants, forming the pillars of good hair care (sometimes humorously called “air care” by hair enthusiasts!).

  • Proteins, as we all know, are the building blocks (keratin, hydrolysed milk, and wheat), can temporarily fill defective areas, repairing hair defects, and strengthening the hair structure.
  • Meanwhile, humectants keep hair away from dryness with their powerful moisturizing abilities, significantly helping to improve hair’s condition.
  • Lastly, emollients, the rich fatty substances, provide an occlusion on the hair’s surface to protect against damage, ensuring a glorious, shiny, and healthy look when properly balanced.

Why PEH Matters So Much?

The right balance of emollients, humectants, and proteins is crucial for maintaining healthy hair. Shampoos, conditioners, and masks with these ingredients help control frizz, prevent tangling, and promote overall hair appearance. Finding the right choice for your hair type is essential. Too much protein may cause hair condition problems, like increased tangling, while too little can make the hair weak. 

hair loss

Understanding the PEH balance ensures your treasure receives the appropriate amounts of each ingredient to stay nourished and smooth. It is important to try different formulations and varying doses to see what works best for your specific hair needs.

What are the Essentials Of PEH Balance?

P Stands for Protein

When it comes to proteins in haircare, they play a crucial role in maintaining a strong and healthy hair structure. Our twisty treasure itself is composed of keratin, an important protein, and is also key for hair reconstruction.. These building blocks temporarily fill in defective areas, providing reconstruction and restoring the hair’s condition.

Common proteins like keratin or hydrolyzed milk and wheat proteins are key to keeping hair moisturized and preventing it from becoming flat, dull, or unstylable.  They help repair any structural defects, regenerate, and moisturize the hair. 

keratin protein

Without enough protein, your hair can become flat, dull, and hard to style. If you overuse them, your hair can become tangled, frizzy, rough, and stiff. To achieve the right balance, proteins should be applied after moisturizing with a humectant, like a shampoo or booster, and sealed in with an emollient. 

You can also use a 2-in-1 product, such as a protein-emollient conditioner or mask, to maintain proper hair health. Proteins can come from animal origin (like albumen, amino acids, and collagen) and plant-based ingredients (such as hydrolyzed corn and soy protein).

protein infographic

PROTEIN DEFICIENT HAIR
  • Brittle
  • Dull
  • Rough when touched
  • Prone to electrification 
PROTEIN EXCESSIVE HAIR
  • The creaky shaft is visible when squeezed
  • Frizzy
  • Tangle-prone hair

E Stands for Emollients

Emollients play a crucial role in maintaining the health of your hair. They act as protectors, sealing moisture and preventing water loss, which can be a major cause of dryness. Without them, hair becomes brittle, losing its elasticity and natural shine. A lack of these key ingredients can lead to rough strands, making hair look dull and feel harsh to the touch.

emollient

These emollients help to smooth the structure of your hair, reducing the effects of external factors like pollution and mechanical damage. To maintain this barrier, products often include ingredients such as butters, oils, and fatty alcohols (like cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol). These ingredients nourish your hair, making it more manageable and less greasy.

Incorporating a protein-emollient mask can enhance this effect, providing a balance between humectants and proteins that work together to maintain hydration and strength. When used correctly, these products help keep the hair’s integrity intact, so it remains soft, shiny, and elastic.

Ingredients like cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and silicones (like dimethicone and amodimethicone) help lock in moisture, while wax and lanolin act as natural moisturizers.

emollient infographic

EMOLLIENT DEFICIENT HAIR
  • Lack of natural glow
  • Light hair
  • Dry strands
EMOLLIENT EXCESSIVE HAIR
  • Hair and scalp look greasy 
  • Puffs up

H Stands for Humectant

Humectants are key to maintaining proper hydration and moisture in your hair. They work by attracting and retaining water, ensuring your hair stays in proper condition despite external factors like UV radiation, pollution, and styling. These ingredients, such as glycerine, aloe, honey, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice, help prevent hair from becoming coarse, dull, and overly dry. 

humectant

They reduce frizz and tangling, and improve smoothness and elasticity. However, excessive use can lead to moisture loss and imbalance. For the best results, it’s essential to balance humectants with emollients, which cover and seal in moisture. Shampoos, mists, and protective sprays often contain humectants like sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, and fructose, which help nourish and protect your hair’s structure. 

I’ve personally noticed that incorporating these ingredients into my routine has helped improve my hair’s natural shine and overall nourishment, especially when facing damage from external factors.

humectant infographic

HUMECTANT EXCESSIVE HAIR
  • Look frizzy
  • Difficult to untangle
  • Lack of volume
HUMECTANT DEFICIENT HAIR
  • Look rough and dull
  • Lack of flexibility
  • Lack of natural shine 

Is PEH Balance Equal Ratio of All Three Ingredients?

When we talk about PEH balance in hair care, it’s important to note that it doesn’t necessarily mean a fixed ratio of proteins, emollients, and humectants. The balance varies based on individual needs.

Every person’s hair is different, with factors like porosity and type playing a significant role in determining what the hair needs most. Some people may need more emollients to keep their hair moisturized, while others may require more proteins or humectants.

The balance of these ingredients is crucial because, just like skin, each person’s hair needs specific components. This means the proportion of each ingredient should be properly matched to the individual requirements of the hair.

a girl with healthy wavy hair

For example, if your hair is dry, more humectants could be required to draw moisture in, while someone with weak hair might need a higher protein content. It’s about finding the right balance that works for you, and that’s where testing and using the right cosmetics come into play.

Hair care isn’t one-size-fits-all, and the ideal PEH balance should be adjusted based on your hair’s specific needs. It’s about figuring out what works for your hair, which may involve trial and error, especially since the right ingredients for your hair type may vary over time.

How Do I Know What My Hair Needs?

To identify the PEH balance for your hair, it is essential to know about protein-moisture balance. It is all about finding the right equilibrium for your hair, ensuring it stays hydrated, frizz-free, and maintains its natural body and texture. It’s like a homeostasis for your hair, keeping it in its best state.

The balance of protein and moisture is key to healthy hair. If there’s too much protein, your hair becomes stiff and dry, while too little can cause weak strands that break easily. Achieving this balance is essential for healthy, beautiful hair.

To know what your hair needs, start by assessing its elasticity and porosity. Elasticity refers to how well your hair stretches and bounces back. If it stretches and bounces back, it’s in good condition. However, if it breaks or doesn’t return to its shape, your hair could suffer from protein deficiency, requiring a protein treatment.

HOW TO TEST HAIR POROSITY

Next, assess your hair’s porosity. This refers to how well your hair absorbs water. You can do a simple porosity test by spraying water on your clean hair and seeing how much it absorbs. If it absorbs too quickly and dries out fast, it has high porosity. If the water sits on top, your hair has low porosity, and if it absorbs at a moderate rate, it has medium porosity. Knowing your hair needs and adjusting the balance of protein and moisture is crucial for achieving that perfect, PEH balance.

How to Build a Routine That Works Specifically for You?

Building a personalized hair care routine is essential for keeping your hair healthy and manageable. The key is to balance moisture and protein according to your hair needs. Curly hair, for example, often responds better to a moisture-heavy routine, while straighter hair may need more protein-heavy products.

According to curly hair expert: ”Curly and Coily hair are more moisture demanding they have relatively low levels to moisture and abiility to retain it which make it more dry, brittle and lifeless”.

Start by choosing the right shampoo and conditioner to suit your unique hair type. You might need to try different styling products and deep conditioners to see what works best for you. Trial and error is part of the process, as environmental conditions like humidity can affect your hair’s response.

Consider using a glycerin-free styler to avoid excess frizz. Build your routine with products that incorporate both moisture and protein to achieve the optimal routine for your hair’s health.

Closing words

Not getting a perfect haircare routine that works wonders for you! Don’t be disappointed, keep motivated and determined. Finding a perfect PEH balance itself is time-consuming and and error-prone technique. You can’t get your result in a short duration. The key to success is to observe and adjust your haircare routine carefully to get your desired results.

FAQs

What is the PEH method for hair?

The PEH method in hair care focuses on balancing three key components: proteins that repair hair defects, emollients that create a protective occlusion on the surface of the hair, and humectants that act as moisturizing ingredients. These substances work together as the pillars of a healthy hair care routine.

What is moisture-protein balance?

It is the balance between moisture and protein and is essential for maintaining bouncy, defined curls. Too much moisture can leave your hair limp, mushy, and lifeless, while too much protein can make it brittle and straw-like.

How to check for protein in hair products?

To check for protein in hair products, look for protein ingredients on the label, such as collagen, keratin, hydrolyzed wheat protein, or hydrolyzed silk protein. These are clear examples of proteins commonly found in hair care products.

What is PEH balance?

PEH balance is the perfect mix of regenerating proteins (P), protective emollients (E), and moisturizing humectants (H). This balance helps to keep the strands strong and shiny, ensuring your hair stays healthy and vibrant.

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